Masterchefs in Australia

I did not land in Sydney with any great expectations of the food. No imperial traditions, no street food, no ancient cooking traditions; Australia’s culinary greatness rested (in my mind) on a flashy television show where cameras were more important than tastebuds.

As it turns out, I was spectacularly wrong.

Yes, cooking in Sydney is all modern urban stuff with no distant roots into any past greatness. Yes, it is food of restaurants rather than streets or palace courts. Yes, it was invented by people still alive rather than great great great grandmothers of people long dead

Yes to all that but… its some of the most spectacular food I’ve eaten.

I’m all about culture and history and tradition and all that, but its really hard to argue with great food, especially with your mouth full.

First day first dinner show in Sydney, and Aniruddha Paul (a man whose passion for the great meal rivals mine) took me straight to the top – Quay Restaurant by Peter Gilmore was Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Restaurant of the Year, made famous by the Snow Egg that featured prominently on Masterchef Australia Finals. The restaurant is tucked away in a glass-wrapped building on one end of the Circular Quay with stellar views of (what else) the Opera House. We came early, we settled in and degustated away; a parade of small, complex, stunningly beautiful portions followed. And then of course there was the Snow Egg itself – what can I say, it lived up to its hyper-hyped billing. Verdict: one of the best restaurant meals of my life.

Then came the burgers. I made friends with a rented bicycle and followed Sydney’s burger-craze to five worthy mentions. The first was Mary’s – a find that was at least hidden-looking (though too highly rated to be actually hidden). A graffiti covered doorway led to a grungy pub with friendly bartenders and a lovely classic burger chased by flaming cocktails. Mary’s was followed by BL Burgers, a towering creation of cheesy, drippy burger goodness elevated by some sublime bacon. Then came Chur Burger, more on the classic side with a lovely charred bun and a bit of a spice kick.

I went back to Ani Paul and a crowded two-hat detour into Mr. Wong yielded impressive modern Chinese food followed by a quick peek into worlds-best-pubs-list Baxter Inn for their excellent selection of single malts.

Back on the street, Burger Project on the way to work yielded quick, competent burgers. Later, Ani dumped me for business commitments so I went by myself into another three-hatted Masterchef-linked restaurant – Aria by Matt Moran – and had another spectacularly wonderful degustation.

On the last night, a few metres down from my hotel, Bar Luca served up the best burger of the trip – a creation called Blame Canada where (of all things one can put between bread) a splash of maple syrup really kicked things heavenwards. Now Bar Luca is the same as BL Burgers earlier (same menu, just outlet instead of sit down) but that time I’d gone classic and missed Canada; lucky to have corrected just in time to leave Sydney with some very good memories.